
Tulip in Soft Pastel

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STAGE 1.
Firstly, I have drawn the
tulip in white pastel on a cool grey pastel paper. I have
chosen a lightly sanded paper by Colorfix as this accepts
plenty of pastel pigment on its surface. I like to layer my
pastels colours to achieve my glowing effect and therefore a
paper surface which permits this is essential.
Also, I will do a fair bit of random
blending of the colour layers. This finely sanded paper
really lends itself to this without the surface becoming
tired and ragged.
TIP:
You can actually use plain
ordinary glass paper (a fine sandpaper available from most
DIY stores) if you can't get hold of sanded pastel paper
easily. However, here are a few outlets online for you to
try. |
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I have also put
in my background first and I will continue to work on this until
a good deal of the colour and shadow areas are built up. I nearly always
consider and work on the background of a flower painting before completing the
actual flower itself and I do this for three main reasons:
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You can often spoil a painting by
putting in a background as an afterthought. I learned
this the hard way! It is actually an integral part of
the painting and by considering it's colour, texture and
any shadows first, it forces you to see the 'whole
picture' so to speak.
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Additionally, the way you pace your
flower onto your background is part of your composition.
Shadows and negatives shapes between petals and leaves
etc can add to or detract from your finished work.
Consider all this first and you'll have less spoiled
work.
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Another reason for painting most of
the background in first when using soft pastel in
particular, is that it avoids pastel dust spoiling your
main focus - the flower. If you painting in soft pastel,
you'll know how pastel dust falls across your paper as
you work. If you were to add your background last, this
pastel dust would spoil your flower colours, making them
less vibrant. On the other hand, flower colours falling
onto the background, actually enhances it and adds to
the harmony of the painting. They can, of course be
gently blended in.
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STAGE 2
Observing my reference photo, I add random
colours to the background to provide surface interest. Instead of trying to
locate and match up an exact colour, this method gives a vibrant surface of
mixed hues. These colours will
echo the warmth of the tulip and help to provide harmony.
I cut round the outline of the tulip, using
my pastel sometime on it's side and sometimes it's edge. Don't worry about
being very accurate or 'going over the lines'. The colours will blend away
into the tulip in the next stages.
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STAGE 3
I have now finished adding layers of pastel
colour to the main background area. I have also started blending the colours
with gentle pressure and a variety of circular movements, demonstrated
in the video.
Next, I drop the shadow colours in and begin
to blend them into the background too. Initially, i put on the colour quite
strong as this will be 'knocked back' with the application of subsequent
layers and blending.
The goal is to keep everything in the
background quite soft and fluid so it doesn't compete for attention with the
focus of the painting; the tulip itself. |
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STAGE 4
Here you can see that I have continued in
this manner with the background, including blending in the shadow areas.
In the next stage, I turn my attention to the
greens. Of course, I'm dying to get to painting the flower head - it's the
main reason I love to paint flowers! I find it pays of, though, to save the
best bit until last with soft pastel. This way you can have maximum impact
with your colour by minimizing the risk of other colours falling onto your
work and muddying the result. I like my flowers to look vibrant and glowing
and this is one of my secrets in achieving that effect.
I lay in the main tones and shadow areas
first on the leaves and stem. I then add some of the highlights to begin to
see the 3D form appear. |
STAGE 5
Using the edge of my pastel, I continue
to work on the leaves and stem, adding stripes of tone and highlight.
The tulip leaf has veins that run the length of it's surface and the
dark and light pastel describes these. The turn of the leaves is also
indicated by applying shadow areas and highlights.
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STAGE 6
Now for the best bit! Using a pale pink
pastel, I block in the tulip head , very loosely. I then add a veil of
deeper, red colour over this and blend gently with directional stokes, using
my fingertips.
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STAGE 7 I continue building up the red, adding a
lovely burnt orange to it before gently blending again. I also start to
spill out the tulip colour onto the background, giving the effect that it is
glowing. Of course, it isn't really this deep but with a painting you have
the opportunity to accentuate and exaggerate whatever you like to achieve a
desired effect.
I the apply some more pale pink to the highlight areas,
also adding white selectively to the top of this, gently blending with
my fingers. You can buy blending tools for this but I find you have far more
control over the behaviour of the pastel if you simply use your fingers.
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STAGE 8
I continue to work this way, observing my
reference photo and adding deep red, oranges, yellow and cooler pinks
and white. I add some yellow ochre to the underside of the tulip, as
though reflecting from the background and to the petal tips, as though
catching the light.
Finally, I tidy up the background area,
deepen the shadows and 'dance' some white pastel across the surface to
give it a freshness. I add some extra detail to the leaves et voila.

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This Flower Painting Course is
Copyright © 2006. Theresa Evans All Rights Reserved.
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